There are TWO main choices for the air intake on a WRX
All types generally "flow" the same. Meaning the air going
into the engine flowing thriough the filter.
The main restriction is the inlet to the "airbox", the filter and the inlet
after the filter leading to the engine.
It is virtually impossible to measure the HP gained when different
brands are compared, OR, when the standard factory paper filter is replaced with one of
these new ones. Some (small) gains can be felt if the old filter is dirty or the
new one is a good quality one.
The BIG benefit is in the replacement cost and cleaning efficiency. Therefore choice of
brand should consider:
Why? because they have been on the market for almost the longest,
they are Australian made and they work.
The Unifilter can be easily removed, it flows well, needs no special chemicals to clean
and is easily re oiled. Plus it is probably the cheapest after market airfilter available.
During cleaning, the foam element can be washed in any household soapy water and the oil
needed to be reapplied (that is critical to the air cleaning process) costs less than $2
per clean. Its easy to do and if the filter is really dirty can be washed thoroughly
unlike other brands which often have to be thrown away. Replacement single elements can be
purchased if they are torn or accidentally damaged.
MRT have a kit for the WRX, called a Group N kit. This includes the
Pad Filter, inner guard Torque kit and inlet plenum.
This gives the best results without the obvious changes and benefits of the Ram Pod.
Other brands:
K & N filters need special chemicals to clean the element as it can not be removed from its support cage and washed out. Fine grain dirt gets stuck in the cotton (filter medium) and is difficult to get out. Special oil is needed to be re applied, again in a spray can. When the filter gets really dirty it often has to be thrown away as it is almost impossible to get totally clean. The element can not be replaced. If damaged the whole unit has to be replaced.
Many other brands compete for the market share. Some claim not to need oiling, these MUST be avoided as dust can get down to "microns" in size and ANY dust can damage engines and turbo's.
Fancy Japanese brands are no better or worse, compare on the items as discussed above and you will always come back to the Australian made Unifilter!
This is where it gets confusing as flow and volume effect HP and
throttle response Meaning the air going into the engine flowing through the filter. Plus
volume in the air filter effecting torque and throttle response
These filters "mostly" replace the complete original airbox. (if fitted
properly)
It is possible to measure the HP gained when different brands are
compared, OR, when the standard factory paper filter is replaced with one of these new
ones.
The BIG benefit is in the HP, torque and throttle response as well replacement cost and
cleaning efficiency. Therefore choice of brand should consider:
Why? because they have been on the market for almost the longest,
they are Australian made and they work.
The Unifilter element can be easily removed, it flows well, needs no special chemicals to
clean and is easily re oiled. It has a 'volume chamber" that effectively
"stores" air to be supplied when the throttle is snapped open, eliminating the
need for the foam to have to instantly flow air. This allows the A/F meter and map sensor
to accurately measure inlet air and supply correct fuel and spark
Plus it is probably the cheapest after market airfilter to clean. During cleaning the foam
element can be washed in any household soapy water and the oil needed to be reapplied
costs less than $2 per clean. Its easy to do and if the filter is really dirty can be
washed thoroughly. Replacement foams can be purchased if they are torn or accidentally
damaged.
On the WRX MRT performance make a kit.
This includes:
On the early WRX the Ram pod is quite noisy, like all "pod" filters however on the current spec WRX this is not a problem as the inlet has a different design.
One simple stainless hose clamp is all that's needed to be touched to remove the foam filter for cleaning. More details.
K & N filters need special chemicals to clean the element as it can not be removed from a support cage and washed out. Fine grain dirt gets stuck in the cotton (filter medium) and is difficult to get out. Special oil is needed to be re applied again in a spray can. When the filter gets really dirty it often has to be thrown away as it is almost impossible to get totally clean. The element can not be replaced. If damaged the whole unit has to be replaced.
Many other brands compete for the market share. Some
claim not to need oiling, these MUST be avoided, as dust can get down to
"microns" in size and ANY dust can damage engines and turbo's.
Finer Filter is a cheap copy of Unifilter, it does not have a completely removable filter
nor a support cage to stop the filter sucking in. or any flexible mounts to attach to, or
a trumpet inlet design.
Fancy Japanese brands are no better or worse, compare on the items as discussed above and
you will always come back to the Australian made Unifilter!
Ask for a Dyno Graph to show how much these really do work!
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MRT Performance - ABN 69 198 394 100
EMAIL: info@mrtrally.com.au PHONE: (02)
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